But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? Amber is often used to create oriental fragrances. Philosophy Love Woods of Windsor Lavender ), Amouage Memoir Woman Frederic Malle En Passant Penhaligon's Blasted Bloom It smells like cinnamon. Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Rather like grapefruit, its near-relation, pomelo is a brilliant, vibrant top note or heart note which adds citrussy sparkle to many perfumes, especially Colognes. Guerlain Rose Barbare Most famous as a recreational drug, the fibres of the plant can be woven into tough cloth hemp and every part of the flower is edible: hemp seed oil is highly nutritious, and great for skin, too (internally and externally). The lily of the valley is The Perfume Societys adopted flower: we simply love the French tradition of offering nosegays of this delicate nodding white bloom on 1st May to people you love and admire. The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. Yet try as they might, perfumers have never been able to capture the scent of freesias. But whatever the source, theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky sensuality, which also has a hint of fruitiness. Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. While they are one of the best perfume brands in the world, offering options for both women and men, they are a complete fashion company. Credit: Credo Beauty. Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret Yardley Royal Diamond. At least thats what I believe. The waxy flowers of this tender twining shrub also known as Madagascar Jasmine or Creeping Tuberose are traditionally used in wedding bouquets and headdresses: romantic, sweet, and (yes) a little like tuberose and jasmine. Orange blossom can be used almost symbolically in fragrance, as well as for its bewitching scent: over time, its come to represent purity, moral virtue and innocence, but fruitfulness and fertility, too. Its also referred to in the Bible (as Balm of Gilead). Once upon a time, black peppers value was on a par with gold hence the nickname and only the rich could enjoy it. Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini The key aroma compound in sweet orange oil, meanwhile, is something called d-limonene and its also a sensitiser for some people, meaning it has to be listed (albeit in the teensiest writing) on labels. Andy TauerUne Rose Vermeille This combo is unbeatable. The first works perfectly in more exotic, Ambre blends making for something thats almost skin-like, or suede-soft - while the aromatic green cardamom adds brightness mostly to colognes and mens scents. The Pheasants Eye Narcissus (a.k.a. For a complete beauty ritual, prolong the fragrance trail with other expressions of the scent. In fact, its used in different proportions in almost all modern perfumes - particularly within chypre and fougre fragrance categories, giving an initial fresh, airy, uplifting quality. Reminscent of jasmine, gardenia and orange blossom, tuberose is often blended alongside those other white flowers. The citys 2000 metres above sea level, and the cooler temperature may be partly responsible for how well it flourishes there, under the control of just five local families. We think theres no more refreshing drink on the planet. LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier Tall and stately and one of the oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years. Sometimes, alternatively, the scent of the blossom of the apricot tree (a.k.a. The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. The fruit can be round, or oval, depending on which species youre looking at and the skins can range from yellow or green to maroon. . Nina Ricci Nina Fantasy Caron Tabac Blond Most of us fall into one camp or the other, but even if youre not a licorice-licker, you may still find its subtle aniseed-y, almost caramel-y note in perfumery intriguing and beguiling. Amouage Memoir Woman The oil of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco. (And we just love the way that perfumers rise to challenges like this), PS Oakmoss has a near-relation, known as tree moss - Evernia Furfuracea - which grows on pine trees, has a turpentine-y scent before its blended, and is also very highly-prized among perfumers. Creed Orange Spice I am convinced that I can detect a hidden note of car exhaust, modern car, there. The clues in the name: this plants more widely used to dye clothing. Additional information about the fragrance ingredients we use in our products can be found for most items in the U.S. and Canada on the brand website and via SmartLabel . Chanel Cristalle Serge Lutens Santal Blanc (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. Goutal ParisLe Muguet Superb floraliser. Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. Guerlain Samsara LArtisan Parfumeur Seville a LAube Diptyque Do Son ), Donna Karan DKNY Delicious Night Theres a romantic (if slightly gory) Greek legend woven around hyacinth, actually: according to myth, the flower grew from the blood of Hyacinthus, a youth accidentally killed by Apollo and even today, in Greece, the flower stands for remembrance. 9 Brooklyn Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Perfume ingredients include a blend of alcohol, oils, and other components such as industry staples bergamot, rose, sandalwood, vanilla, and ylang-ylang. And the mandarin tree gives us mandarin petitgrain, with a thyme-like scent. I love every facet of myrrh, which gives long-lastingness and elegance to both womens and mens perfumes. 341 Likes, 29 Comments - Amina | Visual Designer (@amina.studios) on Instagram: " FLEUR Meet 'Fleur'- a luxury perfume brand formulated with the finest ingredients. ), Calvin Klein Contradiction The bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it? Donna KaranBlack Cashmere Sometimes, then, its paired with other tea-like ingredients but more to paint an olfactory picture, in marketing terms, than for any other reason. Este Lauder Private Collection Enter a young, widowed innkeeper, who sat for the painter and also, its said, became his lover. An ancient natural remedy, lavenders a flowering member of the mint family well, several members, because different types of lavender are used in perfumery. ), Other ingredients, too like extracts of ambrette seed, galbanum and angelica root can also deliver a musky sensuality to a perfume. Elizabeth Arden Red Door In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. Jo Malone London Rain and Angelica. Clive Christian no.1 (price- $2150 per oz) Channel grand extrait ($4200 per oz) Shalini Perfume (2.2 oz bottle $900) Chanel No. Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. Rosemary wasnt known to the Arab perfumers, but it started to be distilled as an oil in the 15th Century, and was a key ingredient in one of the first modern perfumes, Hungary Water. Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci Nez Nez The Unicorn Spell Over a hundred species of honeysuckle exist and among the most fragrant are the wild English honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) the Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and Lonicera fragrantissima, which comes originally from China. Tart and sweet. A well-known family of garden shrubs, syringe bursts into a froth of white flowers in late spring, filling the air with its jasmine-like sweetness which is what perfumers capture, often alongside other white florals, but also in chypre creations. Dior Hypnotic Poison Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. (Its a little like vetiver, if you close your eyes.) Perhaps unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and coconut. Find it mostly in chypre and fougre creations. The white flowers of this tree are used extensively in French perfume production. The dahlia fragrances on the market, weve a hunch, are inspired by the show-stopping appearance of this flower, rather than its scent: its not about to take over from jasmine and rose in the perfumers arsenal, anytime soon. Bamboo is of course also linked with Asian culture: its the Chinese symbol of longevity, while in India its a symbol of friendship. Bacon? Tauer Perfumes06 Incense Rose. Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman Floris Lily of the Valley Givenchy Ange ou Demon Can a fragrance really smell of water? As it ages, the smell matures and develops beautifully, and before it can be used perfumery, it must be diluted with alcohol. But how does it smell? Alienor adds: 'It's smells like tea, actually.' Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Lavender is thought to have originated in the highlands of India, but today its happy in all sorts of sunny, stony, well-drained spots around the world. (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. Saffron was also used to scent baths, houses and temples, while in medicine it was a narcotic. Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle Just that it can. Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. Chanel Coco Noir Guerlain Aprs lOnde This spice has been in use for thousands of years: Pliny described an unguent of fenugreek, and the roots were also used in early Arab perfumery. Not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at: theyre an absolute cornerstone of perfumery the most important flower of all, from the point of view of a nose: sometimes powdery, sometimes woody, musky, myrrh-y, clove-like, sometimes fruity, or just blowsily feminine but always, intensely romantic. Olfactive Studio Chambre Noire. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli "It has a delicate, elegant, radiant, and floral character, reminiscent of jasmine with citrus freshness, and blends well with all kinds of perfumes. Givenchy Fleur dInterdit Le parfumeur franais qui enseigne toutes les manires de tirer les odeurs des fleurs, & faire toutes sortes de compositions de parfums avec le secret de purger le tabac en poudre & le parfumer de toutes sortes d'odeurs pour le divertissement de la noblesse, l'utilit des personnes religieuses & ncessaire aux baigneurs & perruquiers. Floris Tuberose It also blends beautifully with sweet pea and with tuberose. So long as the lily flowers you buy are indeed fragrant, theyll pump their sweetness into the air without fading for a couple of weeks at a time, Cacharel Anas Anas (Theyre left in a cool, dry place, and need protection against fungus and insect attack which would destroy the producers valuable harvest.). According to experts, tea is set to be a key fragrance trend for spring/summer 2015. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. Yves Saint Laurent La Collection In Love Again. By Kilian Royal Leather Patchouli is a magical ingredient. The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita The sweetness of the violets deep blue eyes, Kissed by the breath of heaven, Seems colord by its skies, wrote Byron. Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. Those frond-like leaves evoke the forest, and its damp, earthy, humus-rich floor but actually, its the rhizomes (gnarly roots) from which the ferns essential oil is extracted, using volatile solvents. Tom Ford Tuscan Leather. You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. Byredo Pulp Say papyrus and you probably think of an ancient form of paper, crafted from this member of the sedge (grass) family as an alternative to using wood (its botanical name is Cyperus papyrus). The leaves, bark, fruits and flowers all offer different nuances: earthy, peppery, fruity, buttery or subtly herbal. Fragonard Cerisier en Fleurs (Not only was black pepper ground onto food, though: it found its way into spells and was used as an amulet to protect against disease and other threats. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, Mimosa. Camphor which comes in the form of a white, crystal-like powder - is actually quite popular in Arabic perfumery: its present in a quarter of the legendary formulations from a renowned perfumer known as al-Kindi, as well as being is in widespread therapeutic use: for embalming, as a medicine (see aforementioned chest rub etc. It has more character than sweet orange; it seems naughtier to me. A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. Richard E. Grant Jack, There are over 100 species of lily and it always slightly breaks our heart to buy a bunch and discover: theyre not always scented But many varieties the Madonna lily (named as a nod to the purity of the Madonna), the Casablanca Lily and the Ambre/Stargazer Lily most definitely are, and their subtly different scents are all caaptured in perfumes: intoxicating, heady, rich and sweet, reminding us of jasmine or tuberose. Givenchy Ange ou Demon "Native to South America, especially Paraguay, the essential oil is obtained by hydrodistillation from wood chips of small, wild tropical trees up to 10 feet high.". Some hay fever sufferers, maybe but most of us just love the fresh, green scent of grass. Fendi Palazzo Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. The early fragrant use of the flowers was in pomanders. Theyre then steam-distilled to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the business as iris butter. Aldehydes are actually a family of ingredients: they can be metallic, starchy, citrusy, waxy. Goutal Eau du Ciel Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. Put a few leaves of lemon verbena, or Aloysia triphylla, in a cup, add boiling water and youve an incredibly refreshing drink. Jo Loves Pomelo Este Lauder Alliage Guerlain Shalimar James Heeley Sel Marin (Doesnt mean it will. ChloLove Eau Intense James Heeley Verveine ", A grass with heavy, fibrous roots, which are used to distill an oil that smells of the moist earth with woody, earthy, leather, and smoky undertones. , oily yellow compound, known in the Bible ( as Balm of Gilead ) that I detect... Actually a family of ingredients: they can be metallic, starchy, citrusy, waxy creation. 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